Q. I need to change the upper hydraulic rams on my f355 spider top. I guess my hydraulic oil tank was very low and it caused the rams to dry up. The larger rams are fine but the smaller upper ramns are not. I found this rams for 1/2 the price and I want to install my self. Any idea? Thanks.
A. You can install the rams but without the sd/1,2,3 to configure the sysstem you'll hit a block. They are not plug and play.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I am the second owner of an '85 308 QV. Like a few of the members, I too have had some recent timing/ignition issues. The car has been starting poorly over the last 6 weeks with the smell of gas after shutting down. It has taken a few pumps of the gas pedal to start what otherwise has been a very strong car. This past weekend after driving it, the car backfired in my garage and stalled. When I attmepted to start it up again a few days later, it is now running very poorly and generating almost no power. I have yet to run any compression tests to see what each cylinder is doing, but I have pulled all the plugs and connectors to include both distr. caps w/o anything being overly ugly. What I did notice however, is that the front (exposed) bank of plugs are all wet w/a strong gas smell. Does this sound like a timing issue, i.e. are these valves stuck open/out of timing? Also, and this may seem novice, but is this an interferrance engine? I don't want to bend anything in my periodic start-ups as I attempt to diagnose this problem. Besides taking this to Orlando, is there anyone closer toJacksonville who works on these cars? Thanks.
A. All Ferraris are interference motors, these answers will form a basic understanding. The bank you can see is the 5-8 bank, left side bank. Think of the things like you where sitting behind the wheel of the car. Picture the engine as if it were mounted front to rear. The front by the way is the side with the belts. Number one is closest to the belts [witch is the right side of the car] and goes 2, 3, and 4 in sequence, to the left side of the car. The right side is also the side with the bell housing, clutch, ignition coils etc. The right side also has the flywheel reference marks and they are located on the flywheel, which is accessible under a small trapezoidal cover, under the oil filter. Top dead center is marked PM 1-4. The firing order is 1-3-4-2. If you were to look at the motor standing on the right side of the motor, you would be facing the bell housing and from there bank 1-4 would be on your right and bank 5-8 would be on your left. Now if you picture yourself standing over the 5-8 bank, You have the same layout as the 1-4 bank. The plugs as you say are all wet on 5-8 and ok on 1-4. Check for spark at the cols. You can see what coil feeds the 2 banks. Check spark on each bank. If you have spark at the coil then the problem is probly the wires, cap rotor or extensions. If no spark at the one coil there a problem in the ignition. Pickup, ECU or wiring etc. There is a junction box under the left side wheel well that feeds the engine. If you think that the engine has broken a timing belt or skipped a tooth then it should be checked.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. 1972 dino 246GT what setting should the ignition timing be set at at idle and total mechanical what RPM.
A. Static ignition timing is 6 degrees btdc. Total advance is 35 degrees.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. Another Speedo issue. I have a 1990 testarossa which when the ignition is turned on(not started or started)the odometer counts on at about a mile a minute. The speedo itself has now stopped working-needle at rest. Cant tell you if they happened at the same time. Is it likely to be the speedometer? Thanks.
A. I have not had this problem before. I have heard about it though. I saw something on a chat site once. I would disconnect the speedo sensor at the gear box to start.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I just bought a 1982 400i 5 speed, the car has been parked for two years, it shows 42,000 miles, the engine smokes a lot. Do you think it could be the valve seals or can be something else? Where I can find parts? Thanks.
A. A parts source in the US may be T Rutlands, ask for John. If the car sat for 2 years it could use a good internal cleaning the fuel system is probably worse, so look at servicing it as wellfor varnish and dirt. Some products help to soften seals. I am assuming that the valves/chains have been checked. When you call T Rutlands ask about a work shop manual.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. What is the resistance on distributor condenser for a 1976 308 GTB single distributor? Thanks.
A. Condensers are not measured by resistance. They are capacitors. Condensers absorb the voltage spike caused by the points movement. They generally do not go bad. Their rating is on the shell. Sounds like you need to run the distributor on a distributor machine if you want to do the job completely.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. We have a 2004 F360 at our shop and we have to drain some oil out of the engine because the customer over filled it. We were going to suck out some of the oil but it's a dry sump and we can't run it if it's over full. We cannot get it onto our drive-on hoist without running it. We know nothing about this car and we'd like to know how to bring the oil level down without damaging anything.
A. To drian some oil you would jack the car up and remove the sump plug. The plug location should be in the owners manual.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 360 F1. Love everything about the car except the soft rubber finish on the ash tray door handles ect. Is there someone who refinishes these parts or any other fix. Also my battery died, now my air bag light will not go out? Thanks.
A. I now refinish the sticky parts. I use a wrinkle finish paint or leave the parts stripped. You can search the chat sites such as ferrarichat.com for the different methods owners have used.
If the air bag light is on you are going to need a systema diagnosi 2 or newer to reset it. Sounds like the battery may have had a problem at some point. Cheers.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1998 355 F1 Spider and changed the clutch 3 months ago. The clutch has about 800 miles on it or less. Now my clutch was slowly beginning to slip till it just gave out completely and left me stranded. If I put it in first I have to rev it to 9000 in order for it to move an inch. Why did this clutch burn out so fast? Thanks.
A. I would take it back to the repair shop ASAP. Please tell use who this was. It could be a flywheel issue or a software setup issue. Then again it could be just a mistake or defective part. Not all Ferrari techs are equipted with a systema diagnosi machine. I do not have faith in any other tool to set up the clutch and F1 system.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 2002 575. I have owned the car for approximately 3 months. When I bought the car I put new tires on it. As I drive it, I notice the warning light comes on indicating that the tire pressure monitoring gauge is not active/calibrating. My question is how do you reset this gauge? Thanks.
A. Did you follow the instructions in the owners manual to reset the system after the tires were installed? If so check the pressures and make sure they are the same. It is possible that a wheel sensor was damaged during replacement of the tires. A technician can test the sensors with the sd/2.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 308QV. Can the valves be checked and adjusted with the engine in the car? Same question about changing the cam seals. Thank you.
A. The Cams and seals can be changed with the engine in the car. I prefer to remove the cams and replace the seals and O rings rather than trying to change them with the cams just loosened. I suggest that you check the clearances first. Carefully record the settings and valve number. Remove the cams and fit the new seals and O rings. Change the valve pucks on the valves that need ajustment and then refit the cams. Be careful to correctly index the cams.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I own a 1985 308 QV Euro. All services are current and runs great. If the car is hot, you have to wait about 10-15 minutes to restart. Cold start fires up first time. Is this a fuel pump or ingnition coil issue. How do you diagnose without just starting to replace expensive parts. Thank you
A. For a car that needs to sit for 10 minutes I suspect a fuel problem but I have replaced pick-up sensors before. It is difficult to check the fuel system without the proper tools. Very dangerous also because of the high fuel pressures. You could check the secondary side of the ignition by checking for quality spark. When were the cars wires or extensions serviced? I don't know where you are located but a call to Justin or Kevin @845-425-2600 Wide World of Cars. They work on old cars as well as the new ones.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1980 308 GTS, the cam belts were changed 2 years ago and done 1700 miles. Do they need doing again? Also, how do you change the back spark plugs they look a little awkward? Which plugs should I use?
A. Here we use a 5 year belt change schedule. You should check with a shop in the UK to see what schedule you should use. Changing the rear plugs are tuf the first time but it can be done. I use NGK plugs here. I would check with another car owner to see what they are using. Check the plug extensions to make sure they are not bad. Cheers.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 2001 360 Modena. The complete climate controll system is in-op. I have talked with a Chigago dealer who has sent me the relay's that connect to the system, however, this did not fix the problem. I am searching for some advice or would like to locate a wiring diagram.
Any ideas would be helpful.
A. You can buy a 360 CD set and they have the wiring diagram and info about the a/c system. I can only guess that the fuses have been checked and that the blower motor works.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a '85 308 (4-valve) which runs perfectly, but upon starting, has a prominent tapping sound in engine directly behind passenger's location. As car warms up @ idle (2 minutes), it gradually declines & becomes silent till the next cold start. I suspected a tight guide-to-valve fit, so after a drive & cool-down, I go out & restart engine for abt. 15 seconds. If I use that procedure, then no noise ever after sitting. Even over the winter! Do you think this is a tight fit, or more likely a slightly bent valve? I am not the first owner, so I can't comment of previous use. Thanks very much!
A. You cannot hear a tight valve guide. It sounds like a exhaust tic. Maybe it is a loose vale adjustment. You could start by asking when the car was serviced [how and what is the oil]. Is the noise new, did you get the car with the noise etc. You might be able to listen to the noise with a piece of hose or stethoscope.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I recently purchased an 85 Testarossa with 26,000 miles. I have a very slight oil drip once the oil is warm. It is on the left bank from the rear of the engine at the transition from the cam housing and the "distributor" housing. What type of seal is located here and what is the best way to replace it (engine removal?)? Thanks for your time and considerations.
A. This leak can be repaired in the car. A call to t-rutlands or riacambia america for the correct gasket and any other parts is all you'll need. Before you start check to see if the nuts, bolts or studs are stripped. It pays to use the correct part/gasket, right.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have 1999 360 and my o2 sensors are reading NOT READY by the Ma. State inspection station. Everyone is telling me to drive the car and it will automatically reset itself but it is not happening. I have driven 500+ miles and nothing. Is there a trick to getting this system to get ready for testing? Is there a drive cycle? Thank you.
A. There is a drive cycle. I cannot give you a location to read up on it, sorry. The car must be driven at certain speeds for a time, allowed to coast, part throttle excelleration etc. If you don't do it right, you will not complete the readiness monitors and that will keep you from getting a green light at DMV. Sorry I don't have more info for you. Maybe a search on obd2, readiness monitors. Forza. The car may also have a problem with it not entering closed loop and that would keep the system from testing the o2 sensors. Car sounds like it needs to be put on a scanner and checked. Let us know what you find out.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have just bought a US 308 GTB 1977 and done 1,100 miles in the last 4 days. Everything works great. One thing that wories me, is the oil pressure gauge shows 1/4 at idle 1,000 rpm when the oil is warm, moves slightly higher when reving to say 4-5,000 but after driving for an hour or so the red light comes flicking first and then lights up. The needle does not fall though. I usually stop the car, turn the ignition off and restart it, and the problem goes away for another hour or so. Might be a problem with the oil pressure sender? What should be the correct oil pressure at idle and at 4-6.000 rpm? Thank you.
A. I would check the oil pressure with a gauge cold and then warm. I would also replace the sender. Oil pressure specs are located in the wsm or you might do a search on a chat site.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I am replacing the head gaskets on my 3.2 Mondial. Can anyone tell me the torque settings and tightening procedures.
A. You need a workshop manual to torque heads on a 3.2. They are quatro valve heads and they used a torque to yield system, so you would need literature, tool for torque angle and a special socket. Some things you can get from Ricambia America or you might search other aftermarket suppliers.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I just bought a 1984 400I. What oil and transmission fluid should I use. Thanks.
A. If it has an automatic will use the Dextron atf. If it is a manual I would try any 75/90 or if they prefer You can use the 75/90ns from redline. I would use a good 20w50 oil in the engine.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. Regarding A. Haas educational article on oil, he notes a rule of 10 psi per 1000 rpms as a standard pressure requirement. What if the auto manufacturer specifies a different pressure, i.e., 50psi @3500rpm? How would this affect the choice of oil viscosity chosen, if at all, for this engine under street use? Thanks a lot.
A. It is rare that the manufacturer gives you a range. If they do, use it. From my writings:
For the Maranello 575 Ferrari uses a pressure of 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM. This is all you need to know. Match the oil grade with the temperature of your oil as you drive it.
If you are racing the oil will be hotter and it may be that a thicker grade is needed to achieve 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM.
For me, driving around town, a 20 grade oil will give me more than 75 PSI at 6,000 RPM so I can actually go thinner.
Also, whereas 10 PSI is needed, 10 - 15 PSI would be a good range. I would lean a little close to the 15 PSI myself. If you had 45 PSI at 3,000 RPM and 90 PSI at 6,000 RPM you would be ideal in my thinking.
Hope you find this helpful,
Ali Haas
Q. I have a ferrari 400i v12 injection 1980 that refuses to start when it is hot, do you think there is a relay problem? When it is cold it fires first time. Thanks a lot.
A. This car has 2 pumps,filters, accumulators etc. Is the car suffering from vapor lock, low pressure, or tune-up services. If the car starts when it has a chance to cool, It is probably a fuel problem.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1986 328 gts I have a mech looking at my problem he is more of a mercedes bmw mech but has worked on Ferraris he says I have engine oil leaking into my gear oil? I am a marine mech and figure its better to let someone familiar with Ferraris than me trying and making it worse. I see a couple of you guys are local to me would love to bring my car so you can take a look. It started with typical let warm up 5 min before trying 2nd gear, but now after driving awhile I sometimes lose 1st when I pull up to a light have to shift into 2nd then back to 1st works most of the time (linkage?) anyway I have had the car 6 mo. and don't think I ever want to sell it. I may get divorced first. Would love to be able to keep it if I could find someone to help me with it. Thanks for any help.
A. Don't drive this car other than to have it fixed. You have seals leaking but more importantly you have to have the linkage adjusted properly as well - this is done while the oil/gear fluid pans are off. Not too expensive. Please call me.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a problem with a 2001 360 spider. The temp is high and the fan will not come on even if the a/c is on. Where can I find tech info on the wiring diagram and the location of the thermo switch that controls the fans. What else could be the problem? Where could I get a factory work shop manuel? Thanks.
A. I recommend to check the fuses and you can find their location in the owners manual. As far as buying manuals, the manuals are now on disc and you should check one of the chat sites or ebay. You should make sure you are getting a complete set. Speak with another owner of the discs. Most are unauthorized copies.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 92 348TB with 23K miles on it. What oil do you recommend?
A. Your owners manual calls for a 10W-40 oil. I suggest you read the artical "Introduction to Motor Oil" by Ali Haas in the Education section. It will help you decide what is best for you.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. My 82 308 GTSi idles at 3000 RPM when it starts cold. It will stay at this RPM until it warms ( about 3 to 5 minutes later). There are some missing vacuum lines between the thermally operated vacuum valve on the header tank and the electrically operated valve that sits on the intake manifold. I can replace them but am not sure about the routing of the hoses. My ignition has been replaced by two MSD's set up for four cyl. each. One of the hoses that comes off of the Air Box looks like it was supposed to have been linked to the old computers in the trunk area ( where they used to be)Was there a solenoid that controlled vacuum mounted on one of the ignition computers? I'm trying to correct the portion of the cold start system that controlls idle when it is cold. It seems to be opening the throttle way too much when starting cold. I have searched the internet looking for a layout of those vacuumm lines and cannot find anything. Can you help me on this? It's heartbreaking to start this car and stand by helplessly while the engine screams while warming.
A. Since this car is in Texas I don't think a fast idle is necessary. If you jumper the electric leads at the coolant tank you will keep the cold start air valve from operating and this will keep the car from the high idle you talk of. You need to maKe terminals and 3" piece of wire. You can leave this jumper in place. It will still use the cold start injector and the auxilary air valve will still operate. The vacuum hoses you speak of located at the coolant tank are for egr operation. One hose goes to an electrovalve and then to a vac source at the throttle plate. The other hose from the coolant tank thermovalve goes to the egr valve. The egr valve picks up gases from 5/8 exhaust pipe and delivers them to the intake duct below the cis unit. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. My `80 308 has just had a major service. Belts, valves, wires,& filters. Cats removed, bypass pipes and Tubi exhaust installed. Runs really strong but is hard starting when hot. Also seems to be running very rich as there is black soot with a cold start. Engine does not smoke at all. What bothers me is the soot that comes out with water vapor on a cold start.
A. It is running too rich. i.e.: soot! Take the car back to the shop that did the service, is the most polite thing to say.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 96 355 and just did a major service my self. I installed a straight pipe with tubi so I had to eliminate 2 o2 sensors. My engine light and slow down light are on. Are these lights on becouse of o2 sensor? Can I bypass the o2 sensor?
A. Your new straight pipes should have a bung for the o2 sensors. They are needed for the ECU to work properly. You knew enough to do your own major service. I wonder if there also is anything else wrong. When did the lights come on? Did You check and clear codes before you did the service? Did You not get a connection correct? The check engine light should have come on when the o2's did not send a signal. The car probably thought it was running lean and kept adding fuel. Why attempt this without knowing all the potential problems.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have just purchased a Ferrari 348TS 1992. This car had previously had a £6000 service which included a new starter motor and cambelt change, this car can start ten times on the trot then park up and it won't start when you return. Power is reaching the starter motor. We have changed it twice and the battery. When the car will not start. If I put it into 5th gear and rock the car back and forth, then turn the ignition, it will start. I am hoping the yanks can help me on this problem as my mechanics in Spain and the UK are scratching their heads.
A. I wonder if the same thing that I have written about so many times and it's the solinoid wire not carring enough current to activate the starter. See if putting 12 volts directly to the solinoid makes it spin. Take a current draw test. Also check to see if the starter gear is sticking engaged with the flywheel, since rocking the car in gear seems to free it.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 456gta with the interior climate control not working properly,fan blows even when in stop position. Please can anyone help with a diagnosis. Thanks
A. I would pull the fuse to the HVAC system and see if it still runs. Sounds like the HVAC module is bad.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. My friend has a 97 F355 Spyder that the convertable top won't open properly. It appears that the 2 lower hydraulic cylinders (the bigger ones) are out of time. The left side retracts all the way, but the right side was about 1/4 inch from retracting all the way. We tried to bleed them but that made it worse. Now they are 1 1/2 inches apart. We ran them through a few cycles in attempt to retime, but no help. Is there a way to retime them?
A. I am sorry to say that it appears you need an SD 2 to reset the the roof. Make sure the doors windows and most importantly the seats are moving. I think you might want to run cycle the motor to see if you have any more air in the system.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 2005 360 Spider which at this moment its been work in the dealer. The slow down light still is coming even though they have already fix one of the coils and replace both exhaust pyrometers. They are telling me now that they did a leak down test with the car some warm and found a leak inside one of the cylinders, #6. They are telling me that they will replace the engine head from that side as they think its a leak on the valve guides in that cylinder combustion chamber. Any body with a feedback like this?, are there is any way in how to verify not only if there was a valve guide problem but also a cylinder leak problem?
A. A 2005 car should be on warranty. If they did a leakdown test they should have found where the leak is (rings, valves, or guides, head gasket, etc). We don't have any other info ie; was there work done on the car or has the problem been there and gotten worse. I have not heard of problems like this but one bad cyl could turn on the slow down light. Forza .
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. Can you over-rev the 1997 355-6 speed, and if so, can you damage valves etc. The engine has 19,000 miles on and maintained to the letter from ferrari. I am being told that 2 cylinders are dead, on right bank, pass side. I would think a fuel cut or ign limiter would be in place to prevent overreving. Thanks in advance.
A. The car could hit the rev limiter and probably did in its life. The problem more likely is; if you were to downshift at too high an RPM you could OVER SPIN the engine and that is probably what happened. You have more than valve issues at this point. You need to be careful who does the rebuild as shops will allow a machine shop to take/make shortcuts and that is not what we are all about. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I filled my 328 gts gas tank up for the first time right to the top. then I drove the car for 20 min and parked in my garage next morning I had this strong smell of gas. I checked, no leaks anywhere just a smell. Can you overfill a 328 US model.
A. If you fill a V-8 car to the top, you are bound to spill a little. I would start Checking at the vent hoses that run from side to side and locate the evap system hoses on the passenger side to see if you got some liquid where there is normally vapor. Also check for any cracked hoses. They are getting a little old.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. On a 98 F355 spyder, how do you pull the vents where the tweeters are mounted?
A. To remove the vents you need to look to see if there is a screw that is accessed through the vent face. Rock the vent up and down and use a good light to make sure someone didn't put a screw in there to help hold it in place. Most vents come out with a prying at the point where they swivel. There is a tab that the vent rotates on. You would gently pry the two pieces apart and once started you would go to the opposite side and pry again. Try both side to see what side wants to move easier. You may want to see that things are cooperating and nothing else is going to hold it back. This is plastic don't break it. Slow and easy and no one will ever know you where in there. That's what you want. Look at how it comes out and make sure you put it back in the SAME way. You can use silicone spray. Any good hardware or auto parts store has it. It is great for lubing plastic and rubber. Window slides etc. Make sure it does not make you slip though. Plastic is more friendly when its warm so a little sun could help. Patience is key.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have an '88 Mondial with ABS. How do I go about bleeding the brakes? I have never done it before. I have read many posts on ferrarichat. Should I have a friend pump the brakes while I open and close the bleeder valve until clear, bubbleless fluid comes out, or should I submerge the brake hose in clean fluid to keep the air out. When finished with all 4 brakes(rr,lr,rf,lf),should I fill the reservoir with new brake fluid? Any details would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
A. This ABS system is not unfriendly. If you press on the brake pedal 30 to 40 times you will feel the pedal get harder. The booster and the accumulator will dicharge vacuum and pressure. At this point you are basically bleeding a hydralic system. You want to use a good DOT 3-4 fluid. I like Castrol LMA. Price is great, product too. You want to get at least a quart $7.00. Buy a turkey baster and suck out all you can. If you don't know not to spill any you should not be asking this question. Use some old towels to protect your work area. Professionals do and so should you. The key needs to be kept off. This is important. Key off while any bleeder is open. So a clean reservoir and the system purged. You top off the reservoir with new fluid and start bleeding. It is better to keep the air out of the line. I like to pump the pedal a few time with the line open to move fluid till its clear. Then I bleed the last time or so to see if there is air. Check the reservoir often. Like every 5 or so pumps. You will see how much fluid you use and you donot want to let any air into the system because you let the reservoir get low. Don't push the pedal to the floor. I use my hand and only go down 1/2 way or so. You would be surprised what you can feel. If someone is using the foot, only 1/2 way is ok. If you don't get fluid out of the bleeder with it open and their foot on the brake, you are going to need to be careful with the next step. If you can pump fluid through the system with your hand/foot you don't need to do the next step. I am trying to help you do maintenence on your own car. I might do some thing different. This is where you may need to turn the key on [do not start the engine] and while a foot is on the brake and key on, you will open the bleeder SLOWLY. As the system now will have a lot of pressure. The pressure is enough to blow the hose off, hurt you and make a mess etc. So be careful. Let me know if you need more info. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. In your experience, what is the best combination of jets/air correctors/etc. for a carburetted 2-valve 308 engine with U.S. spec timing? Mine has a 1.25 main jet, 2.00 main air corrector, F36 main emulsion tube, and a .55 idle jet. I'm looking for optimum power, and smooth all-around driveability across the rev range; I currently seem to be idling lean (carb spitting) and have a slight hesitation with gentle throttle input in the mid-range. Thanks!
A. You need to make sure the ignition system is opperating properly. What is the dwell? Do you have both sets of points hooked up? Are they advanceing smoothly? Removing restrictions in the air box help as well. Was the car purchased this way? What plugs are you using? Some have used .60 idles and 135 mains. I would not attempt to just start changing jets. Are the carbs synced? Have some one who knows these distributors check your ign first. It is alot easier to do them than remove and replace the carb stacks. I also have learned to not reuse the washers under the nylocks. Make sure you count the bushings in the rubber seal if you plan to remove the airbox. You know what will happen if you drop anything down one of those carbs.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1992 512TR and I have an issue with the ignition switch. When I attempt to start the car, I can turn the key all the way and all the appropriate indicator lights illuminate and buzzers will sound but it will not energize the starter motor. After clicking the key back and forth for several times(sometimes 3 -15 times) it will finally start. This happens whether the car is cold or hot or immediately after shutting it down. There is no pattern to it. Is this simply a bad switch or a connection problem? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
A. Confirm the starter is working fine ie: the solinoid engages if you manually excite it. You could have a weak starter. I have found ignition cut out switches on the wire coming from the ign key that interupt the current flow to the the starter solnoid and that is what keeps the engine from starting. If you test it, you may find 12v but not enough amps to get the job done. You can install a simple relay at the starter to fix it but that is not the way I prefer. The long way, you would have to start at the ign switch and work your way through the center consol, through the bulkhead to the starter solnoid. Make sure the connector at the starter is ok first, right. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. How do I remove ign. switch cylinder and keys from 365gt?
A. Removing an ign. switch is a straight job. Make sure to disconnect the battery and make a drawning of the wire locations. A picture would be better. A poor job here would turn up on a PPI, so keeep that in mind.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1983 308gtsi QV, and my problem is overheating. If the car is ran on the interstate the temp will stay about 195 +\- 10 deg. If I am in traffic it will get to about 230. That is when I shut it down. I am told that these cars are not designed to run in heat climates and that overheating is expected. Here is what I have done:
A. The problem here seems to be a airflow or ability of the radiator to disapate temperature. I would use a temp gun and check the temps as they flow through the entire system. Remember to make sure there is no air in the system and that collant is actually flowing ie: NO restrictions. Does the coolant flow through the heater core? is it getting to the core etc? Is the coolant flowing in a down up down and out at the radiator? Are the fines taking heat from the water tubes? This can be a very time consumming job. Are you using a 1.1 cap? Is there foam around the radiator? Is the themostat check vale working and did you look at the impeller on the water pump? All these things can hurt cooling. Check tdc and valve timing. I once removed an a/c condensor to prove to a customer that it was restricting air flow. Is there heavy paint on the fins? Aftermarket fans do push more air. Fuel mixture could play a part as well. 83 is the 1st year of the QV and was a simple injection system. I believe they did upgrade the fans. Can you feel the heat being pushed through the radiators? A co/hc test or maybe you could find a temp problem using the temp gun. Like I said I had a car from a central dealer shop that had a problem for many years according to the invoices. Yes you can fix this and make ice cold a/c. You might need to take the car to a 308 guru.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1996 F355 Berlineta. The car had been left standing for a few weeks with out use and the battery went flat. I recharged the battery and then started the car and left it to idle for 10 mins (as directed in the handbook). I then drove the car hard for 40 miles with no problems. However when I went to put the car in the garage the amber check engine 5,8 light stated to flash. I can't find any reference to this in the hand book. Any ideas?
A. I think you did not allow the car to readapt properly. I believe there is a reference in the OM/handbook about all the lights on the dash. You don't say if the car was running poorly or not. I would try to relearn the ecm again and this time not drive the car hard until you put some moderate miles and loads on the system. Then park the car for a short time ie allow it to cool off some. Restart the car, let it idle and turn on/cycle the loads one more before driving the car hard.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 2002 360 Modena with 11k miles. The slow down light comes on at rare intervals. Was a problem but after spark plugs, filter and sensor changed happens rarely mostly if there is dampness on the road. The sensor was changed after the car was analyzed by the computer, yet it still happens. Is this common? Based upon the expense of maintaining the car after the warranty has ended, is it better to take my losses and get a new car with a warranty or is the cost of maintaing the car after the car hits 15K reasonable? (As I love the car).
A. The problem came back? Call the shop and ask what there warranty is. Was there a problem that the car needed spark plugs? Maybe the symptom was repaired and not the cause. When did the problem first start? Was it after service? Your car should have all the updates so why replace it. Services are done in the car. Send me a note at franklin1111@aol.com
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I am myself a car technician and used to work on ferraris since year 2000, specially on Modenas. Since the factory started using the new clutch part number with the longer "End of stroke studs", I started facing problems :
1-with the primary shaft always rotating and difficulty in engaging reverse streight from neutral.
2-Error showing clutch sensor error even if I replaced the clutch sensor(Value too low).
I had to fit shims thick 2mm between the clutch sensor holder base and the release bearing sleeve in order to increase the closed clutch value from 15.46 to 17.46 mm.
Then problem was solved and I had to change the new value in order to have the same wear value as it was before modification.
Any idea of this problem? Thanks in advance.
A. Was your fix a standard operations fix or did someone not tell you? I wonder if the car could have benefited from a tcm reflash/upgrade. Please reply to franklin1111@aol.com. I have a question reguarding your tip values and your software used.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 99 355 spider F1. I broke the Magneti Marelli electric motor that is on the hydraulic pump of the F1 gearbox. I need to buy the motor itself not the complete pump. Where can I find it? Thanks.
A. I understand there are aftermarket replacement parts out there, but I would not recomend it. Ss I don't have any experience to share. I would like to see a picture of your broken part. E-mail it to franlin1111@aol.com. You can try one of the chat lines or call one of the FOC sponsors.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. Hi, Could you help with a problem on a 1999 355. We recently replaced the battery on this car (both terminals were very corroded) and the battery warning light has been on ever since even though it is charging (14.2 v at the battery). Any ideas, Thanks.
A. It sounds like a poor connection [caused by corrusion or the circuit has been corruped]. Let us know your findings franklin1111@aol.com.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1990 Ferrari Mondial T. I've had the 30,000 mile servicing complete 2 years ago when the car reach 21,000 miles. Today it has 24,000 miles. When I purchased the car 2 years ago it also had a high-performance exhaust system installed.
This week I had the "Slow Down 1-4" light indicator come on. When that happened I also lost power. I pulled over, stoped the car - checked the oil levels - all looked OK so I started up again and everything was fine.
However, I took the car out again yesterday and the same thing happened.
Can you suggest what is going on and what I can tell the mechanic to verify in order to rectify the problem?
A. I sugguest you read your owners manual. When you don't follow the slow down warnings the computer will cause you to feel the loss of power you describe by shutting down the bank of cylinders that caused the warning. Read the old tech tips about swapping bits from one bank to the other. This is a common problem.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. My 1990 Testarossa shifts hard especially when cold like every other Test. Is there any special lub or additive that will help this situation? I plan to use Mobil One Syn. unless you have a better idea. Thanks.
A. I like the Redline 75/90 NS to help with this problem.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. On my 2001 360 F1 Spider, cold oil level is barely over the tip of the probe, whereas after the engine reaches running temp, removed the cover and oil frothed to the top of the measuring area, well over the max line. Car was not overheating, serviced 1000 miles ago, this being a routine check. Should we add oil? Pressure upon starting is below 40 - 50, with no warning lights illuminated.
A. Foamy oil is normal. Turn the engine off and wait a minute then check again.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1988 328 GTS and I have a small oil leak from the shifter bushing, the car needs belts next year is it better to do it at the same time or can this be fixed by itself. Do they have to remove the motor for this. Also my power windows are very slow, how can I fix this? Thank you.
A. The shifter seal leak can be fixed with the engine in place. They will have to remove some parts to get the oil pan off, but the job can be done in the car and while it is having its belt service. Make sure you service the t belt drive bearigs if needed. Also make sure you see the parts that where replaced on the car. As far as the slow windows go I would bet the grease in the window transmission is old and holding the window back. It takes about 3 hours each side. The cables can be tricky.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. We have a 1995 Ferrari 456 gta right hand drive. We need the tracking specifications.
A. Alignment specs for a euro model should be found in it's owners manual. If you do not have an owners manual you can download one by signing on the the owners site or asking on the UK chat line.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1998 355 F1 and I was wondering how the seals go exactly in the slave cylinder and how do I get it to stop leaking when I put it all back together. I have talked to several people that are helping me to solve the problem. They all say try soaking the seals in hot water then put them on and lube the shaft with atf when reinstalling the slave cylinder. I have tried many different things and cannot get it to stop leaking and I just got a new clutch for it due to the same problem. thanks for any help.
A. If you look at a parts diagram closely you will see the correct placement. The seals look the same but are smaller larger and scrappers go in a specific order. I use atf or prelube to install them, I did not have to warm them up. The t/o bearing is very difficult pressing on the the collar but you can help each seal/scrapper as you go. I am able to push the 2 pieces together by hand. Yes its tuff. If you are talking about the triple seals on the clutch shaft and disc drive you need to put them in hot water to soften then and then push/work them into place. Use a blow dryer to help them soften and shrink some what and then again work each seal into the disc drive. By the way did you check the drive bearings. Worn bearing could start a leak. Send me an email and let me know how you make out. franklin1111@aol.com
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. My 1988 328 gts is very hard to start when the motor is hot when its cold it starts right away.
A. Engine won't start after a hot soak. Well we could go on about this, but when was the car serviced last. Is it time?
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. 1983 Mondial QV Cabriolet. Just replaced return hose to expansion tank. Cleaned and checked thermostat while working on the coolant system. All ok. I'm getting a popping noise upon start-up, that goes away after a few minutes. Sounds like a spark jumping. Will take a look at night to see whether I can see the spark location. Any other ideas?
A. A popping/clicking noise could be a belt out of adjustment or a bad ignition wire. Working in the hose area you may have dislodged a ignition wire. You would still have the noise running and there may be a lose of power. You could always look at night for spark dancing and if you mist the ignition wires with some water you find any poor insulation. Check the extender between the wire and plug for signs of arcing. Check to see if a back-fire valve is starting to leak as well. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1985 Testators that has started draining the battery. The small marker lights in the doors would stay on even though the doors were closed. I tested all the door switches with a DC volt and Continuity meter and they seem to disconnect as they should. Even after removing the bulbs the battery will die within a couple of days. New Battery and a quick once over of the cables and disconnect with the meter yields nothing. Any Suggestions?
A. Electric drain can be a drag. You'll need a low amp probe or hook up a amp meter to the battery and start removing fuses till you isolate your problem. There should only be a draw of say 50 ma.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a '97 355 GTS, 6 Speed, Tubi exhaust, 18k miles. After the car is thoroughly warmed up, the throttle tends to hang up, that is the car does not readily decelerate when letting the gas off, and when stopped the idle start to climb ever higher. When the a/c is on, it sometimes climbs up to 2000 rpm on its own. What do you think the most likely culprit would be in this situation?
A. I would check the acel pedal to make nothing is hanging up. Check the throttle at the engine. Is the battery charging? The engine tries to compensate for loads. Did a vacuum hose fall off? Let us know what you find out.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I own a 1989 328 GTS. I have a strange intermittent problem with the "slow down" light located in the lower left corner adjacent to the Speedo. After the car initially warms up, as I drive over a small to medium bump in the road, the "slow down" light will blink. Then as the car continues to warm up, in addition to the bump blinks, when I make a right turn, the light will stay on as long as the wheel is turned and extinguishes when the turn is completed. This is only during a right turn. Now, the car is at full operational temperature, and the light will show up intermittently when I jump on the throttle. I'm not sure if this illumination is caused by greater sensitivity to bumps or it actually telling me I need to slow down. I am not pushing the car at all really. 4000 RPM 85 - 90 MPH. During this time, all gauges reading normal. I'm wondering if the bump/blink/right-turn illumination is caused by a connection problem. What is your opinion on what the likely explanation and the possible solution to this problem. Thanks.
A. Sounds like it might be a bad exhaust temp ECU. You can check the wiring in the dash cluster. Check the wiring at the thermo coupling and its ECU. How is the car running? Is the exhaust hotter then normal? Is it smelling like sulfur? You can see if the cat is red hot at night. You might want to have someone look at the car that knows them. Forza.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. This is my first time doing an a oil change on a 95 355 berlinetta. Can you please give me some directions on doing it? Thank you very much.
A. Make sure you have all the parts and they are correct or up dated. It would be very helpful if you did this with someone that has done this before. You will need something to hold the 11 qts or there about used oil. Have some rags around. Warm the enigne up. Check the oil level for good practice. Drain the engine oil from the front drain, I believe it is 12mm. You need to drain the tank as well. Let them drain well, and you can check to see about how much oil you will need to replace to start or less if the oil was over filled. Make sure you check your OM to make sure you drain the right oil. Remove the oil filter and use some rags just in case oil drips. Wet the filter o-ring. I like to prime the filter but if you don't know what you are doing, don't cause you will make a big mess. Tighten the filter hand tight. Don't over tighten the drain plugs. put 7-8 quarts of oil in. Check the tank not to over fill it. Start the engine make sure you don't have any leaks and add oil (1-2 quarts) till you see oil on the stick. expect the oil to expand so DON,T over fill her. That's why I said to check the oil level at the beginning and to see how much oil you drained. If the level was safe when the engine was warm and you removed 10 quarts then put back what you took out. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 95 F355. The other day while driving the slow down 1-4 lite came on for 30 seconds or so and there was a great loss of power. It went away and I drove home OK. A few days later when starting up the same lite was on and that bank of cylinders was not fireing as the manifold stayed cold. I fidled with the ignistion wires and coil pack but still nothing then a few minutes later it was ok. Today I drove for 10 minutes and the same thing happened for a few seconds. I have a tubi with no cats. Can you give me a few reasons whey this might be happening.
A. I would test the thermo coupling on that bank and switch it over to the 5-8 bank to see if the problem. Thermo coupling's are variable resistors, but you might find a break in the wire while taking an ohm test and moving the the cable around.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I recently bought a 2001 360 spider. I own a auto repair garage and would like to buy a SD2 scan tool. Prefer a used one maybe from someone that upgraded to a SD3.
A. There are used tools available, but you should question if you can have it serviced. Some tools are not repairable anymore [SD/1]. You need to use judgement as not all tools for sale are legal or they do not come with any support. You are better advised to speak with aftermarket part suppliers. I believe there are 2 people selling the SD/3 at last check. Personally I would like to buy one from Ferrari if they would sell me one. But I don't think they will.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have receintly purchassed a 1985 GTS, along with the car came a replacement air vent that for the top of the dash I need to install. It looks as if it might pry out, although I see a screw next to the vent.....Your suggestions would be appreciated
A. I would say to first check the replacement part to make sure it is correct. Look to see if a screw hole is in it. Remove the screw with a magnetic screwdriver so you do not lose it. Gently pry up on the plastic. You could try using a little silicone spray under the vent lip. Be careful not to damage the dash. Put something under your tool if you are going to pry hard.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. My 79 308 GTS runs alright, but many times when accelerating--just when initially increasing the throttle, it will pop back through the carbs. A popping sound with a loss of power. Once the initial pop or two occurs, it will usually accelerate fine.
With the air cover off, the pops seem random--not from any specific carb. Some time ago I had removed the restrictive sound baffle in the air cleaner snorkle, and it seems to pop more now. I put a piece of cardboard in the housing to simulate the old baffle, and it's a bit better. Running it with the choke on just makes it run rough.
Plugs looked a bit black sooty, not heavy or fouled, but not oily and not lean-looking.
The carbs were rebuilt a couple years ago by the previous owner at a Ferrari dealer. Distributors look good. Advance curve supposedly worked over by a mechanic a couple years ago.
Carb jets? Timing? Points? Advance? Cam belts off a tooth?
Greatly appreciative for any advice! Awful embarasing to drive a Ferrari and have it pop and stumble in front of people!
A. It looks like you have checked a lot of things out but you don't say you checked the ignition system. Check the cap, rotor, wires and the wire extensions. I bet you find your problem there. Make sure you are using NGK plugs and that you didn't foul them out. Also disconnect the choke.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1990 tr and I want to change the oil. I have oil filter what kind of oil do i need? Thank you.
A. I have been using Mobil 0 W 40. Read the owner manual for other tips. i.e. don't put all the oil in at once, where the engine and tank drain plugs at located. Do your self a favor and check the cambio and v-belts while you are under the car .
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 92 348 TB The seal on the AC Compressor is leaking. Do you know of a place to buy an aftermarket compressor for a reasonable price.
A. If you want to replace the compressor on your 348, I suggest you try Ricambi America as they have a good replacement compressor.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have an '89 Mondial T and when I removed the clutch (wasn't going into gear hot) there was heavy grease around the throw-out bearing and, of course, the discs were greased and some grease around the clutch housing. First, can the throw-out bearing discharge a sizable amount of grease, or is the flywheel assembly a more likely source of the grease? Thanks.
A. The heavy grease you see around the flywheel is the grease inside the flyweel leaking. You can try removing all the grease, repairing the seal and grease or replace the flywheel if it is worn. You can try our sponsors for parts.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I own a 99 360 Modena F1, 16,000 miles. I have recently noticed the gears changing from 2nd to netural and occassionaly from 5th to neutral, what could this problem be?
A. Check to make sure the door, engine lid and bonnet are closed as a lose of signal will put the car in neutral. The pump relay could go bad. Check the F1 fluid. Read your owners manual. The shift accuator may also be out of adjustment. Please tell us what you find.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 83 308 qv and just did a cam belt replacement. When the engine runs bout 2-3 minutes the valves will start to clatter like no oil is getting to them but the oil gauge reads 85 psi. What did I do? Is there any part of doing a cam belt replacement that will affect the oil system?
A. You don't say if you adjusted the valves but I want to guess that you did not and that your problem is when you replaced the belts. I would take the covers back off and inspect the belts, idlers and don't forget to check the cam drive bearing. These should be replaced after a number of miles. It is not that difficult to over tighten the cam belt. If left too long this problem could get very expensive.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. 1984 308QV. The car loses power after running for about 10 minutes. Sometimes loses power right after "Warm up". I suspect something to do with ignition, but where should I start? Thanks in advance.
A. The car should be taken to the shop. It might be a clogged cat. Are there any other symptoms?
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I am considering a 1985 308 qv. Appears like good service & history performed/available. Is there a buyer's checklist handy? Also, a wonderful 348 model page, anything for a '85 308 GTS so I know what I'm getting into as far as the Ferrari maintenance/repair curse?
A. There is a buyers' check list for download at the bottom of the Buyer's Guide page on the web site. Ferrarilife.com has a buyer's guide for the 308.
Hope you find this helpful,
Web Master
Q. I have a customer with a 99 Ferrari 355 manual Gear box. He is asking what product he should use in it? We have heard many Ferrari guys are using our products in these gear boxes? Can you tell me anything about what he should be using? He is currently using RedLine 75W90 NS.
A. I have used 75w90 NS and find it to be a good product. I have used the redline since the 80's. I have also used Royal Purple in the engine and find it excellant. There are many excellant products on the market. Ferrari of Central Florida uses Lubrication Engineers Products.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 400I that only runs on one bank of cyl. It has a new fuel dist., plugs, wires and a MSD-6 ign. It only fires on the left hand side on the exhaust stroke?
A. Was this car running fine before all these changes? Why all the replacements? If we are just talking about the msd unit I would check the wiring instructions and to see if the unit needs or is defective reguarding 12 cylinder operation. How many miles on the timing chain/adjustment. Have you confirmed fuel. You might need to check all the basics/vitals. Make sure you are not 180 degrees out on that bank.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. My 1986 testarossa occasionally seems to go into the wrong gear even though i have put the gear stick into the proper place for the gear i want. It is only happening in gear 2 and 3 but not the gears 1 3 and 5. As i said this only happens sometimes but i am worried about it and know if it happens on a wet road the back wheels could lock up and cause a serious accident. Any answers to how i sort it and is it a major job?
A. The trans needs to be drained and the access cover removed to inspect the linkage. This is better left to a experienced tech. A call to a professional in your area should be helpful. It is not a hard job, but can be a hair pulle.r Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1986 Ferrari Testarossa with 13000 miles. Last night I was driving home and the slow down cylinders 7-12 came on. I drove into the garage and upon lifting the engine lid I noticed the catalytic converter and muffler were glowing red. The whole exhaust was replaced by Ferrari less than 3000 miles ago for the same reason. What is the Problem? Thank you.
A. Well it seems they will be replacing the system again unless the cause of the problem is addressed. The 7-12 bank is overheating because of raw fuel in that bank. The car will need to be diagnosed to correct the problem. You don't say how the car was running or if anything seems out of place. How old are the plug wires, maybe a bad injector. We could go on guessing. Parts from one bank can be swapped to the other bank to isolate the problem. You might find additional info if you look back in the tech tips. Please share your findings with us when the problem is corrected. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. What is a reasonable price to pay for a timing belt change on my 2001 360 spider?
A. In our area it should be in the $1,500.00 range.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. My 1990 Testarossa has a speedometer and odometer problem. While traveling less than 30mph the speedometer zoomed up to 200mph and stayed there until the key is turned off. With the car standing still and the motor running the speedo goes back to 200mph and the odometer spins up miles. How big of a problem do I have?
A. It sounds like the speedo [dash pod unit] needs to be sent out and repaired. You can try disconnecting the speedo sensor on the tranny to stop the milage from rolling by.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 95 355 coupe which I recently changed out the cats to hyperflow. I've driven the car maybe 3 or 4 times with no problems. Just recently my check engine 1-4 light has come on. Vehicle still seems to run fine with no noticeable problems. I've tried restarting it a day or two later and the warning light still remains on. Could the result of this be from the new hyperflow cats I had installed. The manufacturer claims their hyperflow cats do not affect the obd sensor. Any other possibilities related to this check engine light being on. Thanks for your help!
A. You may have damaged a thermo coupling when changing the cats. Try switching them from side to side to see if the error code moves to the other side. If the light changes sides you have a bad thermo coupling. Do you check the car for error codes? Before and or after the installation. This should be a Motronic 2.7 system.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1981 308 GT I have had it serviced to the max. However I was told the back half of the engine runs hotter than the front. I was told it glows after long driving. I had it wrapped with whatever they use and thats that. Is this normal Thanks.
A. A 1981 2 valve motor with 1-4 bank exhaust glowing may be an indication of a clogged cat. I would check both headers. You can try pulling plugs to isolate a problem. You speak of wrapping the headers? Did you take the insulaton off of them. What does your mechanic say? Is it the headers or the cat that is glowing?
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I just bought a used '97 456GTA with no service records (owner's manual only) from a private party who was not the original owner. The car has only 8K miles on it and has been driven about 1K miles recently by the past owner but I'm considering having the 30K major done on it for my own piece of mind. Has Chicago REALLY the closest factory authorized mechanic to Minnesota? Since the engine doesn't have to be pulled to change the timing belts, what should I expect to have to pay and how long might it take (assuming no surprises)? How can I get replacement service books and instructions for the 12-disc changer? Will Ferrari cover the cost of recall work (I found there were several potentially affecting my car) if I am not the original owner of the car? Lastly, I really wanted the 6-speed manual. Is the cost prohibitive to convert this car to a 6-speed manual? Thanks,
A. There are 2 dealers in the IL area and one in mich. This is an older car and the dealership my not be the cheapest place to go. You should join the FOC and talk to members. You may also try ferrarilife.com and ferrarichat.com for other independents. I would bring the car in asap if there are no records. For cam belts you are proably looking in the $1500-$2000 range. I'm sure you will need more than belts and idlers. A 10 year old car will need proper PM to be a driver. Fluids, hoses and filters could double that. We are not talking about hardware broken by a previous owner. How about tires? are they 10 years old. The dealership will be useful for information regarding any recalls not completed on the car. I would not consider a transmission swap. I believe there were only 403 of your car made. Besides you don't know what the car really needs at this point. Sounds like you should have gotten a ppi.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have owned a wonderful 1997 F355GTS for 2 years now. Never a problem until now. Sat for the winter, had to charge the battery to start. Went for a 59 mile easy drive and check engine light came on. Even after a shut down and restart the next day still a steady check engine light stays on. Checked the fuel cap ok. Runs well. Out of the blue its on. Can a Snap on generic scan tool read the codes? How do you check the engine oil level, running or engine off? Thank you
A. The 97 F355 GTS is an ODBII car so only generic codes or data stream can be monitored with your snap-on scanner. You can clear and inspect readiness monitors as well. Read the codes and clear them. Start the car and idle till fans cycle then turn on and off loads on the car. Let the idle stabilize. Never touching the throttle. Drive the car a short distance to confirm mil lamp is off, or resetting of the code in which case we'll hear from you again. Please let me know what codes you get so I may help the next person. Check the engine oil many ways but the engine has to have run and idled. You should check it at idle and then again a minute after shutting it down. Let us know what you get.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 2001 360 spider. Is my mechanic being truthful when he is telling me my engine has to be pulled for the 30,000 mile service to change timing belt etc.. Thank you.
A. The engine does not need to be removed for a timing belt change on a 360.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. Hi, I own a 1987 328 with 36K miles. I posted before concerning what appeared to be gear oil leaking from a vent cap on the transmission transfer gear cover. I proceeded to drain the transmission gear oil and noticed that it was almost 2 gallons, 3 qts over to be precise. I also noticed that the main magnetic drain plug caught a small spring from within my tranny. I then checked the engine oil and it was low by about 3 qts. Is there any way that my engine oil is transferring to my tranny?
A. Why wait to check the fluid levels? There is a problem in the transmission if you cannot engage 4th. It sounds like the engine oil [black ] is being pushed in the gear box and blowing out the vent on top of the transfer cover. I would take the car to a shop as this sounds like it could get worse.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have a 1982 308 GTB that unfortunately due to health problems has not been driven in about 6 months. Now the inevitable has happened, the battery is dead. Can it be recharged and if so, do I need to remove the gigantic spare tire to do so? I also experience the throttle sticking about 3-4 times and made certain there were no obstructions, i.e. floor mats. Any suggestion would be much appreciated.
A. To charge the battery on your 308 you will need to remove the spare and the battery cover. You may want to load test the battery to see if it needs replacing. You may also want to install a battery tender to help prevent this problem from happening again. As far as the sticking throttle you don't need me to tell you how potentially dangerous that sort of problem can be. Try opening the throttle [engine off] to see if the throttle is sticking or the cable. You can use a little WD 40 to lube the spring and maybe spray a small amount in the cable shield. Good luck.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. 1977 Ferrari 308 GTB I need to know the spark plug gap. Thanks.
A. The gap for a points type ignition is .024 to .027 inches. Metric would be .6 to .7 mm. I would use NGK plugs as well. Put a tiny bit of anti seize [ball point pen tip amount] and not to tight, ok. Anti seize can fouled a plug. Use dielectric jelly on the spark plug wire end so the boots will come off easy and to keep corrosion down. It is a good idea to blow out the the plug hole before removing the plugs.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. The engine check system failure remains constantly lit in my 360 modena. I noticed a remarkable reduction of the engine performances. Is anything wrong?
A. If the MIL is on and the car is running poorly it is time to take the car to shop before anything pemanent happens that will probly cost you $ and time enjoying your car. You can tighten the fuel cap and check the fluids, then remove the key, turn off the battery switch, wait a minute or so turn it back on. Then start the engine. if all the lamps don't go off you need to get the car to the shop.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Q. I have an '87 328 GTS w/ 36k miles. I have what I think is transmission fluid leaking from a spring loaded cap near the clutch housing. It is a cap that sits on top of the transmission housing that has cooling fins opposite the fill hole by the clutch housing. It sprays onto the left axle and all over the place. When I sustain high speeds, it lands on the exhaust.
A. I am not sure where you are talking about. You should check the gear lube level as well as the engine oil level. You might spray the area with brake cleaner and wipe the area off so you better locate the leak. Is it coming from the tranfer gear cover, the bellhousing/clutch area or is the fluid leaking from above? If fluid has been added recently, it may have been overfilled.
Hope you find this helpful,
Frank Maderi
Eitan Borochov
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Chris Hejmanowski
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Ray Ouellette
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Stu Martin
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Eduardo Aguilera
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Mazen Stieh
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Toby Hamilton
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Luis
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Luis
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
John Dickey
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Tony Buono
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Ken Esposito
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Denis Askham
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
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John Hoekstra
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
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Rusty
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Jon Douglas
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
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Greg Martucci
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Harry Imirziadis
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Edward L
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Joey
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
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Steve
Barry Fenlon
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Mike Peterson
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Errol Clarke
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Jeff White
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
John Johnson
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Marty Roehner
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Mike
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
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Mark
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Alan Hart
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Rob Long
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
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Franc Fons
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Chuck Poliszczuk
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Herb Magister
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
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Kar Tunes
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Larry Wells
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Kevin
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Holly Mungal
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Jim Snow
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
1. The radiator has been rodded.
2. The entire system has been flushed.
3. the water pump has been checked and is working fine.
4. Both fans have been changed to flush mount 650 CFM fans and are turning the correct way ( towards the radiator).
5. The a/c coil has been cleaned.
6. The fans come on about 195 deg.
I am not a mechanic but it appears that there is not enough air passing though the radiator to cool it down. The car seems to be running rich on an idle. Can a rich or lean mixture cause this? Also how can I adjust the timing maybe it is off? I will try anything at this point.
Brandon Paradelas
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Neil McMillan
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Steve
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Bernard Safaatly
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Fabio
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Pete Anthony
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092, E-mail franklin1111@aol.com
Bill Osborne
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Ted Tiemeyer
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Herb Magister
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Andy
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Zach
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Herb Magister
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Jamie Sadler
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Bill Rowell
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Steven B.
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Dennis Eckel
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Marcelo
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Frank Dellapina
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Gary Bryan
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Douglas Crall
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Art
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Stephen Hampton
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Harry Stopher
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Doug Crawford
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Andrew Pringle
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Brandon Paradelas
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Sean Frazier
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Patrick Brown
James
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Richard Cueto
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Thomas Mc Stocker
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Vincent Troncoso
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Jay Edmark
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Ted Tiemeyer
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Royce Mendonca
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Barry Card
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Name Withheld
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Vaughn Hoplamazian
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Jay Edmark
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
A little history, I purchased the car 6 months ago w/ 32.5k miles. It now has 38k miles. What was happening was that at high engine speeds or sustained velocity, oil would start leaking from the transmission vent cap (the one atop the transfer gears). It would splatter onto my left axle and onto the exhaust, causing horrific smoke. I removed the spring loaded cap and attached a hose with a breather/filter at the end (an old off roading trick to get the axle vents at a higher plane). I then secured the breather to the coolant tank area. I still managed to spit oil even at that elevated point but at least it wasn't landing on my exhaust any more. I then drained the gear oil at the tranny sump and under the clutch. I measured and found it to be 2 gals. I thought that since it was over-filled it was over flowing. I filled with 4.25 qts of Mobil 1 gear oil. When I later checked the engine oil it was down 3 qts. I had topped off the oil less than 3k miles ago. Made me wonder if the two oils are mixing. It happens to be equal amounts.
The spring I found magnetically attached to the tranny sump plug is about 1/4" long and 1/16" diameter. The car actually shifts better now than before I changed the gear oil. It always was stubborn to shift into second when cold, would sometimes grind when hot and would absolutely not go into 4th at anything above 7k rpm. I thought it was the linkage or that at that speed the engine/tranny was shifting/rocking severely causing the linkage to bind. It would feel that if I forced the shift lever any more it would snap. Now I can shift easier, no grinding and no more oil spitting out. All the shifts are positive. I am keeping an eye on it. I plan to drain the oil in 3k miles and measure both engine and tranny again. Was wondering if somehow the oils found a common path. The gear oil was black and I also found some grinds in it. Any info would be appreciated.
Luis Pelaez
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Monique Dean
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
John Viesta
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Solo Bakay
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092
Luis Pelaez
18562 US 19 N
Unit D, Clearwater, FL
727-735-7092